![]() i was looking for an answer to the same question. i stumbled across this thread and had to join just to comment. One of the main things i hate about fourms, is that people always try to pass off "opinion" as "fact". ![]() If you want to know more about the chemistry of making alkyd resins, and the chemistry of modifying that process to produce polyurethane resins, post again. The important thing is to apply each coat within 24 hours (and preferably less) of the previous coat to ensure good crosslinking betwee coats so that they all stick well to each other.īasically, polyurethane resins are really nothing more than alkyd resins with urethane groups inside them. Similarily, you can also paint over a polyurethane floor paint with a polyurethane hardwood floor finish to make for a thicker film, and therefore a more durable coating on your floor. As long as you paint over that alkyd with the polyurethane within 24 hours (and I would do it as soon as you can walk on the alkyd paint) you should get good crosslinking between the two coats for excellent adhesion of the polyurethane to the alkyd floor paint. Consequently, if you do use an alkyd based floor paint instead of a polyurethane floor paint, you could paint over the alkyd with a polyurethane hardwood floor finish for extra durability. You could also use an alkyd floor paint, and top coat with a polyurethane hardwood floor finish.Īll "oil based" products, whether they be drying oils like linseed oil or Tung oil, or alkyd paints or polyurethane paints and varnishes all cure through a process called "auto-oxidation" whereby oxygen from the air is absorbed into the oil film and cross links all of the unsaturated sites together causing the oil film to turn into a hard solid. The latter are just not hard enough to provide good service on a floor.Įssentially, the only difference between a polyurethane hardwood floor finish and a polyurethane floor paint is that the paint has pigments in it to give it colour and opacity. ![]() That is, an oil based floor paint, not a latex "Porch & Floor Enamel". Latex paints form films through a completely different process than oil based products, and mixing them together simply won't result in anything good.įor a durable floor paint, you want to go with an alkyd or polyurethane floor paint. But wasnt sure if it I would be better off stripping that off and putting down a layer of polish or sealant and another coat of synthetic wax with my polisher since she parks it outside and I'm not a fan of letting the UV of that bright circle in the sky crushing the paint of the car she worked hard(ish) to save up for a buy.You can not mix an alkyd based polyurethane (like a polyurethane hardwood floor finish) into a latex paint. I put a coating of synthetic wax (meguiars ultimate paste wax) on it within a few hours of it coming off the truck that brought it to the dealer. If you wanted to go with a coating I believe the Pinnacle Black Label works well with single stage paints. ![]() If its new and in good condition with minimal swirls and scratches then you can go with Menzerna 4000 or even M205 if you wanted then follow up with a sealant or wax. You can polish the paint the same as you would anything else you will be getting white paint transfer on to the pads though, so proper cleaning is a must. More often than not you will find that Toyota white is single stage for whatever reason. Sounds like a typical single stage white Toyota to me. ![]()
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